THE ATLAS JOURNEY · KATHLEEN
Temple mornings, limestone mountains, long conversations and one quite unforgettable chocolate cake.
I entered Laos from northern Thailand at Houay Xai and took the slow boat down the Mekong, with a night in Pakbeng before reaching Luang Prabang. The river gave the journey its beginning.
From Luang Prabang I continued through Vang Vieng and Vientiane, took the overnight bus south to Pakse, rode the Bolaven Loop and returned to Pakse. I eventually left Laos for Thailand through Chong Mek.
Fifteen days makes a useful route, although you can adapt it between twelve and nineteen. The stops are real memories, not a fictional list of things I supposedly did.
Chapter 01 · Days 1–2
I first crossed into Laos at Houay Xai, in the far north, and boarded the slow boat to Luang Prabang. A river journey with an overnight stop in Pakbeng turned the arrival itself into part of the trip.
The first day leads downriver to Pakbeng, where you spend the night. The second continues to Luang Prabang. I would not choose this route to save time, but that's precisely why it belongs in this itinerary.
THE FIRST DAY
I arrived from Thailand and set off by boat from Houay Xai. The river dictated the pace. There was time to take in the wooded banks and the settlements along the water without trying to organise another excursion.
OVERNIGHT
Pakbeng is where the slow boat pauses for the night. I would not dress that simple stop up as an extraordinary adventure. The second day carries you onwards to Luang Prabang, and that is plenty of story already.
Chapter 02 · Days 3–5
Luang Prabang is the place I would choose to begin. Between the Mekong and Nam Khan, old temples, market streets and small cafés make it remarkably easy to settle in before travelling farther south.
Kuang Si deserves a full day. For me, it is the most beautiful waterfall in Laos, perhaps even one of the finest in Southeast Asia. I also enjoyed Pak Ou Caves, although the river journey and the caves' Buddhist atmosphere stayed with me more than the caves themselves.
The night market is more tourist oriented than others I visited in Laos, so I would compare souvenir prices elsewhere. I stayed at Mad Monkey and enjoyed meeting people there, especially around the pool, the only hostel swimming pool I used on my trip.
A FULL DAY
I spent the day at Kuang Si and still wanted more time. The separate pools, forest paths and the main falls give the place a rhythm of its own. It is getting busier and more organised for tourists, but the water and the landscape are still the reasons I would return.
RIVER MEMORY
The caves themselves did not overwhelm me, but the Buddhist images, the rough feeling of the place and the journey on the Mekong stayed with me. I liked that it still seemed connected to local religious life rather than only a stop for photographs.
ONE MORE AFTERNOON
The night market is enjoyable, even if I would compare souvenir prices elsewhere. I stayed at Mad Monkey, enjoyed the pool and met other travellers at different stages of their trips. For one afternoon I would simply explore the old town and its temples, without trying to collect every attraction.
Take time for the old streets.
A temple worth a longer look.
Chapter 03 · Days 6–8
Vang Vieng is where I would loosen the itinerary. The Nam Song, the limestone peaks, caves and lagoons give you plenty to do. The people you meet often decide what happens next.
I stayed at Vang Vieng Garden Bungalows. The wooden bungalows were simple and affordable, and you could sometimes hear the neighbours. Philippe, the owner, was friendly, entertaining and genuinely helpful with things like scooter rental and train tickets. I planned to stay one night and ended up staying the whole time.
I loved kayaking, spent most of an afternoon at Tham Nam Water Cave, climbed Nam Xay and enjoyed swimming at the lagoons. A scooter helped me explore outside the town, but the best part of Vang Vieng was not needing to schedule every hour.
AFTERNOON IN THE WATER
I loved the lagoons partly because they made it so easy to meet people. Swimming, sitting around and making plans for later became part of the day. Vang Vieng works particularly well when you allow the people around you to change your programme.
WHERE I STAYED
I planned to move guesthouses after one night. Philippe, the owner of Garden Bungalows, was friendly, entertaining and extremely helpful. The wooden bungalows were basic and you could hear your neighbours, but the welcome and the price made it easy to stay.
Sometimes staying is the recommendation.
A CAVE AFTERNOON
I spent most of an afternoon at Tham Nam Water Cave and loved it. It would have been easy to add three more stops just because they were on the map, but giving one place proper time was more fun. The limestone valley surrounding the town makes even the ride between activities worth paying attention to.
IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER DAY
Kayaking on the Nam Song was one of the best activities I did here, and I enjoyed the hike up Nam Xay. I rented a scooter to explore beyond the centre, but there are other ways to arrange transport. I would choose the day according to weather and company.
My favourite river outing.
For the less structured afternoon.
Chapter 04 · Days 9–10
I spent two nights in Vientiane and liked the quieter pace of the capital. The temples and the Mekong evenings were enough without filling every hour with sightseeing.
I spent about ninety minutes at Wat Si Saket. After living and travelling in Thailand, I noticed subtle differences in the atmosphere of Lao temples. Here I felt particularly aware of their place in the local community, even with visitors walking through.
Barn1920s Hostel was comfortable, clean, cosy and affordable on my visit. I also had a good evening at Khop Chai Deu, an established restaurant with Lao and international food and live music. I spent around 200,000 kip that night. I walked the night market too and decided against renting a scooter for this short city stay.
WAT SI SAKET
I spent roughly an hour and a half here because the atmosphere interested me. After so many visits to Thai temples, I noticed something subtle in Vientiane: the local community seemed especially present. It was my own impression, not a rule about the two countries, but it stayed with me.
CITY WALK
I chose not to rent a scooter here, partly because traffic enforcement felt stricter than I was used to in the south. Walking and local transport gave me time to look around. The riverside night market was different from Luang Prabang's, with more of an everyday city atmosphere.
A GOOD EVENING
Khop Chai Deu has been established since 1998, with Lao and international dishes. I particularly enjoyed the live music and the relaxed indoor and outdoor atmosphere. Around 200,000 kip covered my evening at the time. After that I was happy to get back to my clean, cosy room at Barn1920s.
Live music makes me stay for one more song.
For the walk after dinner.
Chapter 05 · Day 11
Pakse makes a good base for southern Laos. I would spend the first day eating well, organising the scooter and preparing to ride the Bolaven Plateau.
The French style bread at La Boulange Garden was exceptional. I also enjoyed Ita Lao, where I met a Lao pizza maker nicknamed Sticky Rice, who had grown up in the United States. His pizza was excellent.
I rented my scooter from Miss Noy through Yves before heading out on the loop. Pakse is the place to make sure the bike, documents and route are ready before the plateau takes over.
BREAKFAST MEMORY
I had breakfast at La Boulange Garden and still remember the French style bread. After so much time in Asia it was exactly what I wanted. At Ita Lao I met Sticky Rice, a Lao pizza maker who grew up in the United States, and enjoyed a very good pizza.
THE SCOOTER
I rented the scooter from Miss Noy, where Yves helped me get organised. Pakse was my base before the Bolaven Loop, so I kept the city day simple. One night, a few good places to eat and then the road. I did not need to fill it with attractions.
Where I rented through Yves.
Chapter 06 · Days 12–13
The Bolaven Plateau is where I would slow down again. Waterfalls, greener roads and small villages make this more than a ride to tick off on a map.
I stayed one night at Bolaven Garden, visited Tad Lo Waterfall and went to a nearby Katu village. Fandee Island was the centre of a wonderfully quiet afternoon, with a swim, time in a hammock and a very good burger and chips.
And the lava cake. I remember that chocolate cake almost more vividly than the road itself. There are activities around Fandee too, but I was perfectly happy allowing the day to be slow.
TAD LO
I visited Tad Lo Waterfall and a nearby Katu village before heading back towards Fandee Island. The small stops were part of the experience, not just things to tick off. This is somewhere I would rather travel slowly than rush through an ambitious circuit.
FANDEE ISLAND
I remember the burger and chips at Fandee Island surprisingly clearly. It had been ages since I had eaten that sort of meal, and it was delicious. The lava cake was even better. I went swimming in the little lake and ended my evening in a hammock, completely happy with the lack of urgency.
OVERNIGHT
I stayed one night at Bolaven Garden. Having a place to sleep along the loop changes the whole feeling of the trip. Tad Lo, the village, the river and a quiet evening can become one connected memory instead of a list of roadside stops.
A night on the plateau is part of the journey.
NEXT TIME
There are adventure activities near Fandee if you want a more active afternoon. I enjoyed the slow one. The waterfall visits and the village paths are close enough to make this a good base, but you can decide how ambitious the next day should be.
For a more active visit.
Reopen the Fandee Island field note and save the place.
Chapter 07 · Day 14
Back in Pakse, I returned the scooter and spent another night in town. I also went to Wat Phou Salao to see the golden Buddha on the hillside above the Mekong.
After the loop, a familiar city, a good meal and a quiet night were enough. The view from Phou Salao is a particularly good way to finish the southern chapter.
CITY RETURN
I finished the loop, brought the scooter back and spent another night in Pakse. That was a welcome change after several days on the road. The city had become familiar: somewhere to eat well, get organised and leave without hurrying.
THE VIEW
I went to see the large golden Buddha on the hill overlooking Pakse. More than another temple on a list, it gave me a wide view across the town and the river before leaving Laos the next day.
Epilogue · Day 15
I entered Laos in the far north and travelled all the way south. After returning the scooter in Pakse, I left the country through the Vang Tao and Chong Mek crossing, back into Thailand. This time the border really was the final chapter.
Fifteen days, four quite different parts of Laos, and plenty of reasons to return. What I remember most is not always a famous attraction. Sometimes it is a welcoming guesthouse owner, live music or a particularly good chocolate cake.
